”Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you’ve done it.”
– Paul Strauch, Surfing Hawaii.
OK, I wouldn’t really put it like that, especially since I was spending more time swallowing half of False Bay than actually surfing. Well, maybe I was up there a few seconds on some occasions, most time spent in the water though. This damn so called ”sport” is way harder than it looks. Managed to aggravate my shoulder due to frenetic paddling and got ran over by a chick on a small board, but still had so much fun. Going back later this week!
Now, heal shoulder, heal. If not, what was the meaning of me fooling around in the 18 degree coold water..?